Belgrade is a city that makes you feel things – not always softly, and not always what you expect. It’s bold, rough-edged, and full of contrasts. You’ll see a gleaming new promenade and, five minutes later, a crumbling brutalist block covered in graffiti. It’s not trying to charm you, but sometimes it does anyway.
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Hi, I’m Hazel, a British travel writer with a soft spot for river cities. Belgrade was my home base for five days, with plenty of time to explore the fortress views, the food scene, and the full grit-and-glow combo that defines Serbia’s capital.
Set at the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers, Serbia’s capital is gritty, energetic, and often misunderstood. It’s not as polished as Vienna or as instantly picturesque as Bratislava. But if you’re open to its layers, there’s plenty to uncover – from fortress sunsets and smoky kafanas to inventive food, unexpected art, and late-night river bars with serious bass.
👉 Wondering if Belgrade is the right city for you? Start with my honest post: Is Belgrade Worth Visiting?
Start at Kalemegdan Fortress 🏰
This sprawling fortress-park combo is one of the best ways to get your bearings. Perched at the edge of the Old Town, it looks out over the meeting point of the Danube and Sava rivers – and the sunsets here are unreal.
You’ll find walking paths, ruins, art installations, and lots of locals just hanging out. Bring a coffee or a snack and settle in. It’s also one of the few places in the city that truly feels open and green.
Wander Knez Mihailova Street 🚶♀️
Belgrade’s main pedestrian street stretches from Republic Square up to Kalemegdan, lined with shops, cafés, and neoclassical facades.
It’s busy, lively, and an easy starting point if it’s your first time in the city. Grab a gelato, watch a few street performers, or dip into one of the old-world bookshops.
The architecture has seen better days in some places, but that’s part of the vibe.
Visit St Sava Temple ⛪
Towering over the city, this Orthodox cathedral is one of the largest in the world. The white stone exterior is striking by day or night, and the golden mosaics inside are a work in progress – but still breathtaking.
Even if you’re not a church person, it’s worth the visit. The park around it is peaceful, and the scale of the place adds a sense of grandeur you won’t find in many other parts of the city.
Spot the Domes at the National Assembly 🏛️
One of Belgrade’s grandest buildings, the National Assembly stands near Republic Square with its distinctive green domes and neoclassical flair.
I passed it several times during my trip, and on three of those days, there were marches or protests happening out front. It seems to be a regular gathering spot for public demonstrations, adding a charged, political energy to the area. Peaceful but passionate, and very much part of the city’s living pulse.
Discover the Savamala District 🎨
If you like your cities with a side of edge, Savamala is your stop. Once an industrial zone, it’s now filled with street art, underground bars, and creative spaces in crumbling buildings.
It’s not polished, and parts of it are very much still falling apart, but there’s something magnetic about it. Think Berlin-in-the-90s energy, with a Balkan twist.
Eat Like a Local (and Try the Rakija) 🍽️🥃
Serbian food is hearty, meaty, and made for sharing.
Top dishes to try:
- Ćevapi – grilled sausages with flatbread and chopped onion
- Sarma – cabbage rolls stuffed with minced meat
- Kajmak – creamy cheese spread, dangerously addictive
- Pljeskavica – like a Balkan burger, but better
Wash it all down with rakija, the national fruit brandy. Plum is the classic, but there are many variations. It’s strong. You’ve been warned!
Explore Dorćol ☕
This central neighbourhood mixes Ottoman remnants with artsy corners, cool cafés, and local bakeries. Some parts are beautifully restored, some parts charmingly crumbling.
It’s a great place for a slow coffee, people-watching, or stumbling across murals, courtyards, and second-hand bookshops. It’s also where you’ll find some of Belgrade’s best speciality coffee spots.
Walk the Sava Promenade 🌅
Belgrade’s riverside walkway has had a glow-up in recent years. The Sava Promenada is now sleek and modern, lined with food trucks, skate parks, and outdoor bars – perfect for a sunset stroll or a casual drink.
At night, this area shifts gears. Music spills out from splavs (floating river bars and clubs), and the city’s nightlife side wakes up.
Whether you stay for a drink or just walk by, it’s worth seeing this part of Belgrade in action.
Enjoy Rooftop Drinks with a View 🍸
If you prefer your nightlife above ground, Belgrade has a growing rooftop scene. Try Mama Shelter or Sky Lounge for cocktails and panoramic views.
These spots are great for golden hour drinks or a low-key night out. No riverboat chaos required – unless that’s your thing.
Visit the Museum of Yugoslavia 🏛️
For a deeper understanding of Serbia’s modern history, head to this museum complex in Dedinje. It includes the House of Flowers, where former president Tito is buried, along with exhibitions on Yugoslav culture, politics, and identity.
It’s not a huge museum, but it’s a powerful one, and a fascinating window into a country that no longer exists.
Learn at the Nikola Tesla Museum⚡
Small but popular, this museum pays tribute to the inventor who remains a national hero in Serbia. There are demos, personal effects, and lightning machines that occasionally spark to life.
It gets crowded, so try for an early slot or book ahead. The neighbourhood (Vračar) is lovely for a wander afterwards.
Climb Gardoš Tower in Zemun 🏰
Want a break from central Belgrade? Head north to Zemun, a once-separate town with a riverside village feel. The star here is Gardoš Tower (also known as the Millennium Tower) perched on a hill above the Danube.
The climb up the brick steps is steep but worth it, especially for the views from the top. On a clear day, you’ll see the river stretching far into the distance and the rooftops of Zemun below.
Zemun moves at a slower pace. After the climb, grab a coffee or fish lunch at one of the riverside restaurants and soak up the calm.
📝 Helpful Tips for Belgrade
🍷 Don’t underestimate rakija – It’s stronger than it looks, and locals drink it like water.
🚕 Use an app for taxis – Yandex Go is the local go-to. Avoid hailing cabs on the street.
💰 Have cash on hand – Many places take card, but some smaller bars, bakeries and taxis don’t.
🧭 Navigation can be tricky – Not all streets are clearly marked, so download offline maps just in case.
👟 Expect uneven pavements and stairs – Wear sturdy shoes and watch where you step.
Map of Belgrade Highlights 🗺️
Want to plan your route or visualise the neighbourhoods? Here’s a Google Map with all the key sights, views, and food stops marked.
Belgrade, You’re a Lot (In Every Way) 🌆
Belgrade was the most complex of the Danube cities I visited; not always easy, not always pretty, but rarely boring. It’s a city that challenges you a bit, and that’s part of its personality. There were moments I loved, and others I didn’t, but it definitely left a mark.
If you’re looking for grit, nightlife, and a city that doesn’t try to impress you but still somehow does, Belgrade might just be your kind of chaos.
👉 Exploring the Danube region? Here’s how to link the capitals by train or bus (coming soon).
FAQs About Visiting Belgrade 💡
Questions about exploring Belgrade, Serbia.
Is Belgrade safe for tourists?
Generally, yes. I felt safe walking around central areas during the day and evening. Just keep an eye on your belongings in busy spots, as you would anywhere.
Do people speak English in Belgrade?
In my experience, not as much as in other European capitals. English was spoken in some restaurants and hotels, but outside of tourist spots, it’s not guaranteed. A translation app and a few key Serbian words will definitely come in handy.
Can you drink the tap water in Belgrade?
While the tap water is officially considered safe, there have been past concerns and outbreaks linked to water quality in Serbia. If you’re visiting, it’s safest to stick with bottled or filtered water, especially if you have a sensitive system.
Where should I stay in Belgrade?
Dorćol and Stari Grad are great for walkability and Old Town charm. Savamala is best for nightlife and river views, while Vračar feels more residential and laid-back.
Is Belgrade walkable?
The main sights in the Old Town, Dorćol, and along the river are all reachable on foot, though you’ll want comfy shoes for uneven pavements and hilly bits.
What’s the best time of year to visit Belgrade?
Late spring or early autumn. I visited in winter, and it was extremely cold and rainy. Shoulder season is ideal if you want better weather and a more relaxed pace.
Other Posts You Might Like 📚
Is Belgrade Worth Visiting? My Honest Impressions.
Pinterest 📌
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Tags: Balkans, Belgrade, Central Europe, Danube Cities, Serbia
