Belgrade is a city that doesn’t pretend to be something it’s not. It’s bold, raw, occasionally beautiful, occasionally baffling – and rarely boring. I spent five days exploring Belgrade, and came away with mixed feelings that still sit with me today.

Scenic view over the rooftops of Zemun, Belgrade, with a yellow church tower in the foreground and the Danube River glistening under a clear blue sky in the background.
View over Zemun rooftops and the Danube, near Gardoš Tower
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If you’re wondering whether Belgrade is worth visiting, the answer isn’t as straightforward as yes or no. It depends on what you value in a travel experience, and what kind of energy you’re looking for.

I’m Hazel – British travel writer, river city enthusiast, and always curious about places with a bit of edge. Belgrade was the focus of a five-day trip, with enough time to get past the surface and sit with the city’s contrasts. This post shares my honest impressions of the city – no sugar coating.

First Impressions of Belgrade 🌊

Belgrade hits differently.

It feels less like a curated destination and more like a city just getting on with things. There’s grit, graffiti, and a kind of defiant energy that you feel in the streets. It’s not conventionally pretty, but it is real. And there are pockets of charm and atmosphere that sneak up on you when you’re not expecting them.

What You Can Expect from a Visit 🌐

Unlike cities that reveal themselves instantly, Belgrade takes a little longer. Over five days, I explored fortress viewpoints, smoky kafanas, riverside promenades, and streets full of brutalist/communist buildings and unexpected beauty.

Medieval stone castle entrance with wooden bridge, historic fortress in France, blue sky, sunny day, popular travel destination, Hazel’s Travels.
Kalemegdan fortress

You’ll likely see Kalemegdan Fortress, St Sava Temple, the Savamala district, and perhaps spend time along the Danube or Sava rivers. There’s vibrant nightlife, hearty food, strong rakija, and a mix of old and new that’s more jarring than seamless.

Some areas are dilapidated. Some are sleek. Some smell bad. It’s a lot – but that’s part of the story.

👉 Want to see what I actually got up to? Here’s my full guide to the best things to do in Belgrade.

Belgrade Compared to Vienna, Bratislava and Budapest

Belgrade shares the Danube with three other capital cities – Vienna, Bratislava and Budapest – but feels distinctly different from all of them.

Vienna is elegant and ordered. Bratislava is compact and relaxed. Budapest is bold and dramatic. But Belgrade? She is gritty.

There’s an undercurrent of chaos that makes it feel different from its neighbours. That can be invigorating or exhausting, depending on your mood.

If the other cities are polished European cities with postcards in mind, Belgrade is the one that stayed up too late and doesn’t care what you think.

Decorative historic building entrance with ornate wrought iron gate and graffiti art, capturing urban architecture in an old European city.
The Savamala District

What I Liked 🤩

  • The views from Kalemegdan at sunset
  • Café-hopping in Dorćol
  • Discovering excellent street art in unexpected places
  • Wandering without an agenda and stumbling across local markets and bookshops
  • Watching the Danube and Sava rivers meet beneath the fortress

What Wasn’t For Me 🚫

  • The lack of care in some public areas
  • Unregulated party boats and the stories behind them
  • Indoor smoking
  • Poor water quality (many tourists stick to bottled water)

It wasn’t that these things ruined the trip; they just coloured the experience in a different shade than I expected.

Is Belgrade Good for Solo Travellers? 👤

Yes, but be ready for a more observational kind of trip.

I felt safe walking around and didn’t struggle to get around the city, but it wasn’t the kind of place where I easily struck up conversations or felt a sense of ease.

Golden hour view of Belgrade's historic waterfront, showing colorful buildings on a hillside, with the spire of St. Michael's Cathedral rising above. Houseboats and splavs (floating bars) line the Danube River under a blue sky with scattered clouds.
Belgrade’s Danube waterfront near the Old Town, with St. Michael’s Cathedral and riverside splavs (floating bars).

English wasn’t widely spoken in many places, so having a translation app and some patience really helped.

Also, I sensed that being British didn’t always land well – after a couple of awkward moments, I stopped volunteering that detail.

So, Is Belgrade Worth Visiting? ✅

It depends.

If you want romance, fairytale charm, or spa days with river views, this probably isn’t your city. But if you like places that are a bit rough around the edges, with history, personality, and unpredictability, Belgrade might just surprise you.

View of the Sava River in Belgrade at sunset, with floating river barges and houseboats lining the shore, leafy trees on the left, and Kalemegdan Fortress visible in the distance on the right under a pastel sky.
Floating river barges on the Sava River at sunset, with views toward Kalemegdan Fortress in Belgrade.

It didn’t sweep me off my feet – but it made an impression. And for a city that often gets overlooked, maybe that’s enough.

👉 Belgrade might not be as polished as Vienna or Budapest – see what makes each Danube city different (coming soon).

FAQs About Belgrade 💡

Got questions about visiting Belgrade? Here are some of the most pressing questions about visiting the Serbian capital.

Is Belgrade safe for tourists?

Generally, yes. I felt safe walking around central areas, even in the evenings. Just be cautious in nightlife zones and use a trusted taxi app rather than hailing cabs.

Do people speak English in Belgrade?

Not as much as in other European cities. Some staff in hotels and tourist spots speak English, but many locals do not. A translation app is helpful.

When is the best time to visit Belgrade?

Late spring or early autumn. I went in winter, which was very cold, rainy and a bit intense. Shoulder seasons would be more pleasant.

Is the water safe to drink in Belgrade?

Technically, yes. But due to past outbreaks and inconsistent infrastructure, many visitors choose bottled or filtered water to be safe.

What’s Belgrade’s biggest strength?

Atmosphere. It has a raw, lived-in quality that makes it feel honest and unforgettable – even if not always easy.

Modern high-rise buildings of Belgrade Waterfront reflecting in the Sava River at sunset, with a pastel purple and pink sky and the curving Belgrade Tower on the right.
Belgrade Waterfront and Sava Promenada at sunset, with reflections on the Sava River.

Related Posts You Might Like 📚

Looking for more honest takes on Europe’s great river cities? Try these next:

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Save this post for later or share it with your travel group. Belgrade might not be for everyone – but it just might be for you.

Pinterest graphic with the text “What’s it really like in Belgrade?” featuring an evening view of Belgrade’s waterfront, with historic buildings illuminated by warm lights and the top of a church tower lit against a purple sky. Includes the word “Serbia” and the website hazelstravels.co.uk.

👉 Looking for practical travel tools? Check out my Travel Resources page.

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