Driving in Puglia can feel like a bit of a mystery before you get there. Will the roads be chaotic? Will parking be a nightmare? And what on earth is a ZTL? I’ve road-tripped around Puglia several times (including solo), and I promise it’s not as scary as you might think.
In fact, once you get the hang of it, driving here is the best way to explore olive grove backroads, coastal clifftops, and hilltop towns that buses never reach.
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This guide isn’t about renting a car (I’ve got a full post on that if you need it) – it’s about what it’s actually like to drive in Puglia: the rules, the quirks, and the little things nobody tells you until you’re sat behind the wheel.
Documents You’ll Need (and the IDP Question) 📑
An International Driving Permit (IDP) isn’t always asked for, but I recommend carrying one. It’s basically an official translation of your licence, and some police or rental agencies prefer to see it.
It’s cheap and easy to get before you travel, and worth the peace of mind.
You’ll need your home driver’s licence and your passport when picking up your rental.
The Roads in Puglia (From Highways to Goat Tracks) 🛣️
Puglia’s roads are mostly good, but they vary a lot.
Rural lanes: Don’t be surprised if your satnav directs you down a lane barely wide enough for one car, with stone walls on both sides. It’s part of the charm… and sometimes a little nerve-racking.
Autostrade (A-roads): These are fast, tolled highways that zip between major cities. Great for covering ground quickly.
Strade Statali (SS): State highways marked with “SS” signs. Good condition, link towns and cities.
Strade Provinciali (SP): Provincial roads – smaller and often more scenic, sometimes narrow and winding.
Rules of the Road – Italian Style ⚖️
The basics you’ll need to know:
- Drive on the right, overtake on the left.
- Seatbelts are mandatory for all passengers.
- No mobile phones unless you have hands-free.
- Speed limits:
- 130 km/h on motorways
- 110 km/h on main highways
- 90 km/h on secondary roads
- 50 km/h in towns/villages
- Headlights are required in tunnels and during poor weather.
- Blood alcohol limit: 0.05%.
ZTLs: The Tourist Trap You Really Want to Avoid 🚫
The Zona Traffico Limitato is the bane of many travellers’ road trips. These are restricted traffic zones in historic town centres, where only locals or authorised vehicles are allowed at certain times.
They’re easy to miss – it’s just a white sign with a red circle – but drive through one without permission and you’ll be fined (even if your hotel tells you it’s ok).
Tip: If you’re staying in a centro storico, ask your hotel in advance how to park legally. Sometimes they can register your plate so you won’t be fined, or they’ll direct you to a permitted lot.
Parking in Puglia Explained (Blue, White and Yellow Lines) 🅿️
Parking is one of the trickiest parts of driving in Puglia, especially in historic towns.
Here’s what the lines mean:
Blue lines = paid parking. Buy a ticket from a nearby machine and display it.
White lines = free parking (though time limits may apply).
Yellow lines = reserved for disabled drivers or residents.
In coastal towns and popular villages, expect limited spaces. Bigger towns usually have underground or multi-storey garages – these are worth using to save time and stress.
Driving Etiquette & Local Quirks 🚗
Italian drivers are often described as “chaotic,” but in Puglia I’ve found them more assertive than dangerous.
A few quirks:
Expect quick lane changes, sudden overtaking, and the occasional double-parked car blocking the road.
Roundabouts: Italians don’t always use indicators in the way you’d expect. Keep your wits about you.
Country roads sometimes double as footpaths for farmers, or grazing spots for goats. Don’t rush (enjoy the scenery instead!)
Safety, Petrol Stations & Breakdowns 🛟
Emergency numbers: Dial 112 for police or roadside emergencies.
Breakdowns: Pull over, switch on hazard lights, and use the reflective warning triangle (usually in the boot of your rental).
Petrol stations: Common on main roads. Many are self-service but can be confusing. Some only take cash, some only take cards, and some require you to pre-pay at a machine before filling up. If in doubt, look for a staffed station.
Is Driving in Puglia Worth It? (Honest Pros and Cons) 🤔
Pros:
- Freedom to explore small towns and beaches off the tourist trail.
- Scenic drives through olive groves and along the Adriatic coast.
- No need to rely on patchy public transport.
Cons:
- Parking headaches in old towns.
- ZTL zones can be a minefield.
- Narrow rural roads can test your nerves.
For me, the pros massively outweigh the cons. If I can manage it solo, you definitely can too.
Renting a Car: Where to Book 👉
I won’t rehash all the rental details here – I’ve written a full post on that. If you want tips on choosing the right company, comparing prices, and what to watch out for in the small print, head to my Renting a Car in Puglia guide.
Driving in Puglia FAQs 💡
Not always, but it’s strongly recommended.
Yes, highways are in good condition, but rural roads can be narrow and winding.
Most toll booths take cards, but having some coins is useful just in case.
They’re common, but machines can be confusing. Always have a backup payment method.
Rental companies will automatically charge your card and may add an admin fee. Best bet: avoid the fines in the first place!
Final Thoughts
Driving in Puglia might take a little adjusting, but it’s absolutely worth it. You’ll have the freedom to stop at tiny towns, eat in out-of-the-way trattorias, and pull over when the coastline suddenly takes your breath away (which it will, often).
If you’re ready to take the plunge, check out my full car rental guide for the practical booking side.
Related Reading for Puglia 📚
🚘 7 Day Puglia Itinerary.
🚙 10 Day Puglia Itinerary.
🚗 14 Day Puglia Itinerary.
🌟 Tips for travelling in Italy: Ultimate Q&A Guide
👉 Puglia Travel Guide.
Driving in Puglia – Pin for Later 📌
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👉 Looking for practical travel tools? Check out my Travel Resources page.
Tags: Europe, Italy, Puglia, Road trips
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